2010年7月25日星期日

Introduced a variety of fabrics



(A) the classification of clothing materials,

Clothing materials, including apparel fabrics, accessories and various packaging materials, which is composed of the sum of garment processing of various raw materials.

Materials for the textile fibers and natural fibers generally can be divided into two major categories of chemical fibers. Natural fiber directly taken from nature. Such as cotton fiber, wool fiber, silk fiber. Chemical fiber by chemical processing and will have to made of polyester fiber, viscose fiber. Source of natural fiber can be divided into plant fibers and animal fibers, plant fibers which can be said cellulose fiber; animal fibers can also be protein fiber. Chemical fiber sources can be divided into under man-made fibers and synthetic fibers, including synthetic fibers such as wood, sugar cane, milk, soybean, reed and other materials are derived from natural fibers; the synthetic fiber is based on coal, water, oil, processed air as raw materials, such as polyester, nylon and so on.

Natural fiber textile fabric softness, moisture, air permeability are better, but it is not easy storage, easy to insects or mildew. Although the chemical fiber fabrics feel better than natural fibers, but it good elasticity, high strength and difficult to mold, insects. In addition, the moisture absorption of chemical fibers, natural fibers breathe better, but as the textile and chemical industry, which of these properties is gradually improving.

(B) of the fabric is smooth Fandao identification

1, positive and negative selection at the store customer identification cloth, often find that some fabrics are not easily distinguished from negative; clothing store in the nesting cutting and sewing garments, the slight negligence, it is easy to mistake the fabric of the positive and negative, to clothing color depth uneven pattern does not match, the United States affecting molding. Therefore, the identification of positive and negative face of the fabric and cutting and sewing purchased clothing is very important.

Identify positive and negative cloth, generally used method of seeing and hand touch. Specific information about the following aspects:

(1) According to the fabric pattern and color recognition. Positive pattern fabric, patterns are clear-cut, clean and detailed, colorful; negative is more positive fuzzy dim, lack of hierarchical patterns.

(2) According to the pile to identify. Corduroy, velveteen, mercerized velvet, are positive there is no fluff fluff negative than the flat; for fleece fabric, hair and more positive and tidy, the opposite is less fluff.

(3) According to the characteristics of cloth edge identification. General fabric of the cloth edge, positive than negative smooth, crisp, edge to the opposite side of the cloth in curling. Some high-end apparel fabrics, such as it expected, the edge of the cloth have code or other text. Then the text clear and positive material, obviously, clean; while negative words are more ambiguous and anti-written.

(4) According to the trademark and seal of recognition. Domestic Sales of the entire piece is usually in the opposite posted material trademarks, product specifications, and in each section, each stamped with the date of production ends and hallmarks. For export products, trademarks and seal will be affixed to the front of the fabric.

(5) According to the packaging identification. Piece of textile products into the packaging, every piece of cloth outward side is negative. If double width fabric, the inside layer is positive, the outside layer of the negative.

In addition, there are also individual fabrics, negative patterns and unique, soft colors. Therefore, cutting sewing, the fabric can be used as a positive use. Jacquard, stripe fabric, front stripes, lattice and jacquard should significantly higher than negative, level and bright uniform color. For the plain, twill, satin fabric type, positive lines clear, clear, smooth surface smooth. In short, the identification of positive and negative material, should be integrated in many aspects to consider in order to draw the right conclusion.

2. Identify printed fabric down along

Not all of the printed fabrics are down along, should be determined based on specific patterns. If the complete design, portraiture, travel, tower, trees, etc., can not be reversed, otherwise it will affect the look.

Check left-right asymmetry of the fabric, called \It should be noted so that the entire garment grid line, otherwise, lattice disorder, affecting the appearance of the modeling results.

Identify smooth down hair type fabric. Corduroy, gold velvet, velveteen surface has a layer of thick hair. Shun's in color, bright luster, when the hands touch the fabric feel smooth; down deeper the color, glossy dark, hands felt rough when touched. Fabric for hair type, we make clothes, paying particular attention to the issue down smooth hair, so the whole fabric down along the same garment. Otherwise it would color under natural light, different shades, different light and dark shiny appearance is not effective. Backward generally taken as good, if it is flash fabrics also need to smooth down the same fabric.

(C) Identification of cloth

If we can master a simple method of identifying clothing, buy clothing in the choice of materials will be even more handy. Especially in high-volume buying fabric or clothes, decide whether the goods are genuine, real materials is very important judgments that current events can make money off a business problem.

Cloth method of identifying many of the most common and convenient is possible sensory process and the combustion.

1. Sensory method we often see some people experienced when the hands touch the election materials, Nie Yinie fabric, fabric to see whether it is smooth and elastic; also useful in the nose to smell the smell of fabric, with eyes shiny fabrics, and dyeing to see whether the uniform, with ears to hear the voice of torn fabric and so on. These are all directly through the eyes, ears, nose, hands and other sensory organs of the fabric for identification. This identification method fabric we call sensory method.

(1) cotton. Identification of conduct and feel it, it will see its shiny white skin and soft hands to touch the fabric will feel soft and smooth body. When Pinch the fabric, after release will be evident in the fabric surface leaving the fold, and not easy to restitution. If the yarn from the fabric edge crossing a look out, you find that they are of different lengths.

(2) cotton fabric. Relatively bright gloss on canvas, hand-touch fabric feel smooth, smooth, good elasticity, Hand quickly after restitution, without folds. Cotton cloth soft pastel colors and more.

(3) rayon. Soft luster bright, smooth and bright and clean cloth, colorful, elastic good, than the cotton fabric is soft, hand clenched and release, clear and easy to fold back to its original. Fabrics made hard contact with water, and thickness.

(4)-dimensional cloth. More bleak than bright colors. Soft, uneven gloss, slip into the water after the fabric made.

(5) C cotton. Look like a cotton cloth, the color is not as soft cotton cloth, colorful, cotton cloth fabric is not as smooth, soft feel does not have roughness. C cotton elastic good, hands clenched and released, folding is not obvious.

(6) pure wool worsted fabric. Known as the \Planing it smooth, clear lines, natural and gentle luster, bright colors bright, soft, warm and elastic. Difficult wrinkles, hands clenched it after the release material, then face the rapid restitution. Worsted wool fabric commonly used are: gabardine, where Li Ding, serge, palace, thin tweed, tribute it, what other female clothing.

(7) pure wool woolen. Known as the \Feel full, soft, and a warm feeling. Very flexible, easy to fold, soon after the restitution pinching. It face full. Common woolen are: navy, coat it, Melton, flannel, uniforms do, tweed, etc..

(8) Viscose blended woolen cloth. Dark glossy, bright color is not as pure wool fabric, thin cotton cloth appears to have a similar feel, soft and not crisp, easy to wrinkled, Hand and release, restitution slow.

(9) pure polyester blended woolen cloth. Luster brighter, feel softer than pure wool fabrics, with stubby sense. What surface smooth, clear lines, wrinkles easily, good flexibility, Hand quickly after restitution. The polyester fabrics are common hair or Mao Dihua up to it, palace, tweed, etc..

(10) acrylic blended woolen cloth. Viscose blended fabric similar in appearance. But feel more full, with warm feeling, good elasticity, wool feel stronger. Common Article have hidden compartments hidden tweed type fabric.

(11) nylon blended woolen cloth. The appearance of wool feel bad, there are wax-like luster, feel hard. It planing, hand squeeze and release, easy to produce folded, the slow restitution.

(12) silk. Soft shiny bright. Colorful uniform, feel soft, smooth, natural drape can hold up their hands, hands touch hands when feeling cool and thorns. Pinch force after release, have folded, but not obvious. Silk biggest feature is the dry, the silk surfaces rubbing against each other will have a \It can be different from silk and chemical fiber silk.

(13) viscose silk fabrics. Also known as artificial silk fabrics. Shine bright glare, as the natural silk soft, smooth feel soft as silk hand hold up into the light, elegant, easy to pinching and release time and do not wrinkle easily restored. After wet, easily torn open.

14) polyester filament fabric. Shine bright glare, uniform color, smooth feel, good elasticity, Yong Shounie and release, not easy to fold, to restore smooth, wet, the easy to tear open.

15) nylon filament fabric. Less luster. Color is not bright than the dark, silk coated with a layer of wax like surface. Feel harder than other silk is soft, easy to fold, after pinching can slow restitution.

(16) hemp fabric. Glossy dark, rough and not smooth cloth. Feel stiffness, cool, moisture absorption, air permeability, good wear resistance are better. Easy to fluff wrinkles, elasticity is not good. Hand recovery is slow. Clothing, hemp fabric is mainly used in ramie and linen fabric.

(17) Polyester. And comparison of natural fibers, natural soft gloss is not enough, feel hard, good elasticity, easy to fold, but fold open into the difficult recovery. Polyester fabric is the most widely used synthetic fabrics.

(18) nylon. With a wax-like luster feel, wear and stiffness than PET, more than any other fiber deformation.

(19) acrylic. The appearance of wool being strong, good flexibility, bright color. Hand is not easy after the recovery, easily deformed.

(20) PP. The appearance of fluffy, feel light and soft, not easy to wrinkle.

(21) Spandex. Elastic strength than other fibers, can be immediately resumed after pinching.

2. Combustion

Sensory method is simple, the main rule of thumb for identification of the cloth. For beginners, easy to make mistakes. We also can identify and feel based on the further combustion to identify clothing, would be more accurate. Identification of burning cloth is also very simple. Start crossing a cloth out of yarn on the re-use as firewood point ene, carefully observe the color of burning flame, smell the smell of casual clothing, looking after the ash and other combustion. Person can identify what kind of fiber cloth.

Table 3-1 shows the burning of several common performance characteristics of fiber

Types of combustion ash smell

Cotton

Close to the fire without melting Notations, fire rapidly burning yellow flame when burning paper smell like ashes less, light gray, ash than the valuables of

Ma close to the fire without melting Notations, fire rapidly burning yellow flame when burning paper smell like ashes small, gray

Shrinkage of wool near the fire, but does not melt, fire slow burn, leaving the fire to burn themselves out like gray hair or feathers more than the smell, were black and brittle ball, hand pressure will be a loose

Wire near the fire, but does not melt when the curling, fire slow burn, leaving the fire to burn itself out like gray hair or feathers are dark brown smell of small ball, a pressure will be hand loose

Viscose rayon burn rapidly, yellow flame when burning paper smell like little gray, light gray or gray

Shrinkage polyester melt near the flame, combustion produces white smoke and yellow flame with aromatic odor gray brown to black ball, easily crushed by hand into the end of

Nylon shrinkage near the fire melted droplets drip when burning blue flame with a slight celery flavor gray to dark brown ball, not easily crushed by hand into the end of

Acrylic and contract close to the fire, fire burn fast, and bright white flame, the smell slightly smoky gray with black Anabaena small hard ball, easily crushed by hand into the end of

Shrinkage PVA softened near the fire, fire burning slowly, the flame is small and gray with red and smell the brown ball, knot the top of the fiber,Sexy silk dresses, not easy to crush into a fine powder by hand

Contraction near the fire when the PP melt in a fire slowly burning, bright blue flame, like the smell of ash when burning wax for the lump can be crushed

(D) the advantages and disadvantages and application of common cloth

1. Cotton fabric cotton fabric is the most widely used fabrics, inexpensive, very popular. It has good moisture permeability. Wear soft, comfortable and warm. Bright color, colorful, heat-resistant Fast, easy to be alkaline. But the acid less capable. The biggest drawback is less flexible, easy to fold. It is also easy to mold, but can not easily be moth-eaten. Cotton fabrics are widely used for underwear clothing. Common with poplin, plain cloth, seersucker, canvas, serge, gabardine, etc..

2. Wool

Wool is a general term for woolen fabrics. Wool is the main raw material for woolen cloth. It's moisture better, no wet feeling when wearing, soft and comfortable. Colorful, easy to fade in contact with water, acid but not alkali. In natural fibers, wool woolen flexibility is the best wool in the sun for too long, otherwise they will lose their luster and turn yellow sheep Mao Youliang have old sense. It is also intolerant insect, easy to mold. Common with palace wool, gabardine, flannel, tweed and so on.

3. Silk fabric

Elegant silk fabrics, the \It is comfortable, breathable, warm moisture, light and cool, flexible and crease resistance than cotton and hemp are good, colorful and easy to fade in contact with water, fly in the ointment is easy to moldy silk and easy to insects, not Fast. We are talking mainly mulberry silk is also true silk silk. In contrast, silk fabric soft, smooth, beautiful color; Tussah Fabrics are feeling stiff, often wrinkled. Many common varieties of silk, divided into silk, textile, yarn, silk, Ge, Kam, Aya, Luo, velvet, crepe, then, Ti, Serge other 14 categories.

4. Linen

Ma expected to do best summer clothing, stick it comfortable body with cool breathable benefits. And its good moisture absorption, strength is also large. Is the strongest natural fiber fabric in a. Linen cotton wear resistance than good, but easy to fade than cotton. Thus hemp varieties relatively simple materials. Clothing is mainly used for linen fabric ramie and linen, commonly used are cotton, linen, wool and linen, polyester linen blended fabrics.

5. Viscose fabric

Viscose fabric softness, moisture absorption is good, but less flexible. Easy to fold deformation. Acid and alkali resistance, such as cotton are not good. And can not be long in the sun exposure, become soft or brittle. Viscose fabrics are widely used, often with artificial cotton, artificial, artificial silk and other blended fabrics, to improve its shortcomings.

6. Polyester fabric

Very good elastic polyester fabric, and wool similar to acid is very good. Not easy to moldy, moth-eaten, light fastness is also very good, second only to acrylic. Feel hard, not easy to fold, deformation, so the clothes made of relatively stable size. Another advantage of polyester fabric, is its shrinkage is small, quick-drying washable, have a good \But it's moisture absorption is poor, wear often feel airtight, easy to play the ball, easily dirty. Common is polyester and cotton polyester fabrics, wool, silk, linen and other blended fabrics.

7. Acrylic Fabric

Acrylic fabrics have good elasticity, soft and warm, often referred to as \It's light fastness of natural fibers and chemical fibers best. Heat resistance after the polyester. Acrylic acid corrosion is not easy. However, poor alkali resistance encountered when dilute alkali or ammonia will be yellow color. In addition, moth-eaten moldy acrylic difficult, not easy absorbent, quick-drying washable. The main disadvantage of acrylic is not wear, when wearing airtight. The use of acrylic in a wide range of wool textile in common are wool, blankets, acrylic blended fabric, long hair and so on.

8. Nylon fabric

Nylon fabric than all natural fibers and chemical fibers are wear-resistant, and good elasticity, moisture absorption than polyester and acrylic are all good, but the impatience concentrated acid alkali nylon, not mold, not afraid of insects or rot. Its disadvantage is easily deformed, poor heat resistance. After long-term sun exposure, easy to yellow, long-wearing nylon fabric in easy pilling after.

9. PVA fabric

PVA is also called \PVA fabric than cotton fabric wear and wear without feeling airtight. Lightfastness, alkali resistance are good, and not easy to be moldy and rotten. The main disadvantage of PVA is easily deformed in hot water. So should not use hot water immersion, washing, moist conditions, it is also not ironing. However, in dry conditions, the heat resistance of polyvinyl alcohol, or better, and secondly, PVA fabric wrinkles easily when taking color bleak.

10. Polypropylene fabric

Polypropylene fabric abrasion and good flexibility, acid and alkali resistant, not afraid of insects, does not decay, but polypropylene is currently the lightest of a textile fiber. Polypropylene fabric clothing with strong durable, stiff and not easily deformed, quick-drying washable. Its main disadvantage is that heat is bad, not a long time in the sun, and that does not feel soft, gas-tight feeling when wearing.

(E) common cloth of shrinkage

Cloth soaked in water, washing or ironing will shrink to some extent, this phenomenon is called shrink. Different fabrics, their nature is different shrink, shrink the size of the shrinkage we use to express. If there is a large cloth moisture absorption, such as cotton, viscose fiber, polyvinyl alcohol, etc., and their shrinkage will be larger, and then if nothing out of the fabric texture, its shrinkage will be more compact texture of fabric large. So we should take into account the purchase of cloth fabric shrinkage. Large shrinkage of fabric can be more appropriate to buy some, and cutting system, it is best to first soak in water to shrink, so as to avoid occurrence of a large clothing dimensions in proportion to the changes and Akira.

 

没有评论:

发表评论